human galapagos

laurel says:

many come to galapagos for the wildlife and natural beauty, but there is a human side to these islands that is equally compelling.  to be honest, prior to our trip i  didn’t even know that there was a human population in the galapagos.  in reality 30,000 people live there across 4 populated islands (the other 9 are uninhabited.)  the largest town is puerto ayora on the island of santa cruz.  that is where we spent the past week, addicted to the laid back pace, friendly vibe, white sand beaches and delicious food.  the town is centered around the waterfront main street.  we couldn't walk down the street without running into someone we knew, from the talented nature guides and friends we made on our boat to the many interesting travelers that we befriended in town.  our daily grind was a gorgeous half hour walk to tortuga bay, a white sand beach that stretches as far as the eye can see.  we made many a friend along the path, including the park keepers and local surf crowd who took emil under their wing.  every night we would go to a street filled with ‘kioskos’ aka the equivalent of food trucks.  the staple dish there is called ‘enconcado’ meaning seafood in a spicy coconut sauce.  a shrimp dinner will set you back $7, or you can spring for the lobster for $14.  all of the fish is caught locally that day and purchased at a one stall fish market on the man street.  each fisherman gets to control the stall for one hour to sell his wares.  the going price for tuna was $2 per pound, still wet from the ocean water.  naturally, we were about ready to pack it all in and set up shop here.  the only thing stopping us…the governmental ban that allows only those born in the galapagos or married to someone born in the galapagos to live full time on the islands.  after 2 and a half blissful weeks on the islands, we reluctantly moved on.  next stop, peru!

our future home

laurel begging emil for one more week in paradise

emil contemplating his next drink

the local fish market

our private white sand beach

our daily walk to beach

best lobster you will ever have for $14

local street food scene

despicable discrimination

emil says:
pasty white people are discriminated against in equatorial countries.  if one requires greater than spf 50 south of some longitudinal fault line, one is discriminated against. the cost of johnson&johnson plain moisturizing cream costs $5. cost of an spf 50 diminimus tube size is $20. and should the cost rise per 5 unit increase in spf?  discriminatory pricing at work. plywood at home depot per square meter is $3 during mild weather. plywood at home depot during a hurricane in september is $3. similarly in poland we do not charge more for michael jackson skin whitening forms of surgery because we are further from the equatorial sun. end the hate. i need me some cheap sunscreen before we burn through our budget for this trip.

darwin's galapagos

laurel says:

“it is not the strongest of the species that survives, nor the most intelligent that survives.  it is the one that is the most adaptable to change.” –charles darwin

charles darwin visited the galapagos in 1835 and his observations here are what informed his theory of evolution as dictated in ‘the origin of species.’ and in our short time here, it is easy to see why the galapagos inspired such a theory.  home to penguins that can survive in the tropics, iguanas that have learned to swim and filter salt water, cormorant birds whose wings were useless and therefore morphed into flippers, deeming them flightless…the galapagos is full of wonders.  this archipelago has been the absolute highlight of our trip this far and is a place not to be missed.  it is hard to articulate how beautiful these islands are…and each of the 13 islands is completely unique.  one day you will be trekking thru a field of pitch-black lava when you stumble upon a mirage-like lagoon with tropical flamingoes, and the next day you will be in a lush tropical forest with giant tortoises that fades into desolate desert.  it is a trip for the senses.  the only thing that can trump the incredible vistas is the animal life that is both abundant and fearless.  at times you have to look where to step so that you can avoid trampling a marine iguana or sea lion.  the experience is amplified by the daily snorkeling opportunities…by far the best i have ever experienced.  snorkeling in crystal clear waters with a dozen sea turtles, curious sea lions diving below your feet, penguins racing by you, rays gently swimming along, schools of thousands of tropical fish, even the occasional shark.  life abounds.  the only predatory forces that keep the population in check are the changing of the sea currents and sadly, man’s influence.  it is a delicate balance between keeping the islands pristine and preserved while at the same time wishing everyone can one day experience how truly awe-inspiring this place is.  we are finding it hard to leave this island paradise, as our travel agent can attest to with our ever-extending return flight date.

on our fave island, espanola

blue footed boobies performing their mating dance (beats emil's)

these feet could inspire a color palette

we promised to send the crew a flabongo

the south american towel penguin...nearly extinct (carnies eat your heart out!)

a baby albatross

albatross' kissing

the flightless cormorand

the male frigate bird inflates his throat pouch to attract the ladies

pelican's anxiously await a handout at the local fish market

sally light foot crabs with our boat in the background

can you guess how many iguanas are on this island?  (granny jacq would be shaking)

emil's new friend

marine iguana in action

just another land iguana that we almost stepped on

175 years old and still going strong

laurel tried to take him home but he wouldn't fit in the overhead bin

my new home now that stanyan st is sold

baby sea lion saying hello

the three amigos

sea lion in love

sealed with a kiss

hawaii is soooo 2000 and late

emil says:

laurel said it perfectly.  what boggles the mind here is how explosive life can be without a natural predator, mammals are for the most part meat eaters and there aren’t many of those here.  most animals honestly look like they are smiling: sea lions will mock you as they swim circles around you. blue-footed boobie birds nest without making a physical nest, why do they need to hide? from whom?  most of the anxiety is about reproduction/finding a mate as competition is fierce, rather than ‘survival’, as there is plenty of food. this is a unique place. what i am most happy about is how light humanity has trampled upon the islands. trails on the islands are strictly adhered to. boats/cruises are highly regulated in both their number and their itineraries. local fishing boats don’t use nets and are limited to specific locations. a trip to galapagos can happen on an 8-10 day vacation from the states. take the kids here.  show them first hand why they are recycling, composting, and not driving hummers.  this is magical stuff.   

kickin quito

emil says:

what a welcome change quito has been: upbeat, young, proud, vibrant, and with an actual infrastructure to boot (and i saw a recycling bin).  solid blend of antiquities and bumpin nightlife. food has been a welcome improvement from colombia and cuba. at an altitude of 9,200 feet quito creates some sinister hangovers and taking that one elevated step into one's shower feels like climbing the steps of machu pichu. on a side note "business ideas for folks looking to set up enterprises in quito": 1) feels like avg male height here is 5'4" and i only mention this because of the prominence of motorcycle riding in this city. sadly most fellas at a stop light are unable to reach the pavement solidly with both feet, making for a wobbly akwardness. create a 'lower-seated' motorcycle, make a fortune. 2) there are at a minimum 100 galapagos tour operators each brokering seats on only 50 private boats. consolidate this industry, its so ripe for 5 owners to own all the boats rather than 50. 3) chile/argentina have wine, columbia had a fabulous brewery (bogota brewing co) even cuba has some great pilsners but ecuador doesn't seem to have a marketable national beverage. seems like an easy fix.

inglesia de san francisco...under construction for the past 5 years

 i love....gooooolllldd!

turns out panama hats are actually made in ecuador!

virgin of quito

we still like each other

might take one of these home

laurel says:

bring on ecuador!  after a 5 hour bus ride to quito where a crate of chickens was checked in as baggage, we arrived in quito.  (luckily our backpacks were chicken poop free)  and let me upgrade you....we are finally staying in a nice hotel in a converted colonial mansion.  i def recommend this spot if you are planning a trip here:

http://www.cafecultura.com/

quito's old town is a unesco world heritage sight full of ornate spanish churches lining narrow cobble stone streets.  after exploring old town, our big to do was to organize our galapagos trip.  this turned out to be quite a process, but all worth it for the incredible last minute deal we scored.  if you are considering a trip to the islands, and have a few days of wiggle room, you can save 50% or more by organizing the trip on a last minute deal from quito.  we leave for galapagos tomorrow...pinch me now.  

bon voyage

http://www.lapintagalapagoscruise.com/discover-la-pinta.html

bogota blows

laurel says: aside from the escobar museum and botero museum (a-mazing), bogota proved to be a bust.  but the real adventure began when we left the city for our bus ride to ecuador.  riding a dilapidated bus for 24 hours thru the colombian countryside= pushing this germ-a-phobe to her limits.  luckily the bus journey lead us to popayan, a gorgeous colonial town off the beaten path.  we broke up the bus trip with 2 nights there, exploring the white washed city and touring the churches.  now we are ecuador bound!   

pablo escobar's gold-plated harley

the botero museum

columbian coffee, juan valdez style

bogota

popayan

popayan

emil says:
we will visit spots that just somehow don't vibe with us, columbia was that spot.  i am sure there are multiple gem cities/towns that we missed but as tommy boy said "you can stick your head up a cow's ass and eventually find a t-bone."  folks were nice in the enormous, and in spots uber unsafe, urban sprawl of bogota, but coming from music centric and flavorful cuba the stop in colombia was blander than expected.  looking forward to the galapagos.

havana nights

emil says:
top 5 ways you know you are in cuba:
5. as you enter your air cubana flight, the plane steward says in a thick russian accent "this plane was made by russians for small chinese people"
4.  there are no exit row procedures, because no one can read russian
3.  you yell to cabbie that he is about to run over a dog and he yells "the dog will figure it out, its the people that haven't"
2.  money exchange office runs out of local currency (insert USD is 'for sale' joke here)
1.  everything 'works' in cuba. they fix everything. circa 1950s cars from around the world somehow continue to run, duct tape protruding from the engine bloc. mcguyver is alive and well in everyone. a doctor can fix the leaky roof. the dentist can fix potholes in his driveway. its impressive. a super resilient culture. no one has anything, but everyone has nothing, so they lack jealousy and envy.  its a happy and upbeat culture despite the oppression and economic malaise they have and continue to face.

the symbol of havana

the vintage cars are amazing

touring havana's oldest cemetary

hemmingway's hangout...where the original daquiri was created

a glimpse of havana vieja

laurel says:
any country with $2 mojitos, is a friend of mine.  by far the most unique place i have ever been.  in a sea of homogeny where everything has definitely started to look the same, cuba truly is an island.  no internet, no english newspapers, us cell phones and credit cards do not function...we truly were 
off the grid.  old havana is a gem...vibrant colors, stunning colonial architecture, and live music everywhere you turn.  but i would only recommend this destination for the truly adventurous.  the poverty is 
oppressive, but the spirit of the people and the authenticity of the culture prevail.